Tag Archives: tutorial

Quilting Triangles II

I have managed to get back to my “It takes a Village” quilt. It has in total Forty-four (44) 4″ triangles. I had previously posted two of the quilting designs I was using for my triangles. Again, using my walking foot, here is the third…

Diamonds within:
I love the simplicity of this design, where you can see the equilateral triangles and then the intersecting lines to form a diamond. I did do some initial marking for this block. I marked the 2” center line, and on the two sides I marked the 2″ height mark for the intersecting lines. These marks are used as rough guides to evenly separate the sections.

DiamondsWithin

Here are the quilted lines for this block; their directions, start and end points:
Triangle_Quilting_DiamondWithin

 

Tutorial: Design to Reality – Escaped

Last week, I posted the tutorial for Trapped which was featured on Sew Mama Sew.

Trapped_Displayed

This was the first of a series, I am calling “Houdini”. The other block is Escaped. Here is the tutorial for the second block.

QDAD_Escaped3_22September

Fabric Requirements

Fabric A: (Kona Red, A)

  • 1 4” x 6.5” rectangle (extra inches included)

Fabric B: (Kona White, B)

  • 1 5” x 1.5” rectangle

Fabric C: (Kona Black, C)

  • 1 6.5” x 17.5” rectangle (extra inches included)
  • 1 5” x 9.5” rectangle
  • 1 5” x 7.5” rectangle
  • 1 7” x 17.5” rectangle

Batting: 17.5” square
Muslin: 17.5” square

Additional Materials:

Frame: 18” square frame

Escaped Block Assembly (Finished Size 17”)

Always use a ¼” seam allowance while piecing.
QDAD_Escaped_22September_Template

  1. Take Fabric A (red, A1), measure from the bottom right corner place your ruler at this mark, at the top have your ruler move in ¼” (as shown in picture above) and cut.
  2. Place your ruler along the outer edge of A1, and measure 3” and cut the same parallel outer angle.
  3. Use the 6.5” x 17.5” strip of fabric C, and cut a piece 6.5” x 9.5“. This will be for piece A3. Overlap A1 outer edge (minimal overlap) and the right edge of A3, lining up the bottom and top edges. Both pieces should be right sides facing up. Using A1 edge as the template, line your ruler up along the fabric edge and cut the below black fabric. This is now the inner angle/edge
  4. Sew A3 to A1. Press the seam.
  5. With the remaining fabric (6.5” x 8.5”), this will be A2. Overlap A1 outer edge (minimal overlap) and the left edge of A2, lining up the bottom and top edges. Both pieces should be right sides facing up. Using A1 edge as the template, line your ruler up along the fabric edge and cut the below black fabric. This is now the inner angle/edge.
  6. Sew A2 to A1–>A3 piece. Press the seam. Now the bottom 1/3 of the block is complete. Trim if need be, the bottom ½ should measure 6.5” x 17.5”.
  7. Sew the 7” x 17.5” rectangle to the bottom 1/3. Press the seam. A1–>A2–>A3–>C1
  8. Next step sew B2–>B1–> B3
  9. Sew this last piece to the other 2/3 of the block, to complete the block.
  10. Create a quilt sandwich using your completed top, your batting and the muslin for the backing fabric. Baste using your preferred method.
  11. Choose how you would like to quilt your block. I used straight line quilting techniques, and having those lines get denser as they closed in to the red and white boxes. Trim your block to 17” square.
  12. Once quilting is complete, it is ready to be framed. I used a 18” square frame, with a mount board of ~2” wide.

Tutorial: Coffee Cup Sleeves

My first year sewing, I decided to make coffee cup sleeves for Christmas gifts and a Christmas fair. They were so successful, and after making about 40 of these, I thought y’all would enjoy them too.
FinalSleeve_front

Materials:

  • 24 2.5″ x 1.5″ Scraps (I am using pink and purple scraps which could be any size)
  • 3 6.5″ x 1.5″ Linen strips
  • 1 6.5″ x 10″ Corduroy (for backing, you could also use felt)
  • 2 6.5″ x 10″ fusible fleece ( you could use one piece fleece, one piece insul fleece; I use both pieces of fleece, so that I can use it for cold drink sweat as well)
  • 1/4″ binding (Wrights double folded bias works well)
  • 1 Elastic hair tie
  • 1 button
  • 1 Paper Coffee cup sleeve (use as template)

    Scraps

  1. Sew the 2.5″ x 1.5″ pieces into 6.5″ x 2.5″ strips and trim. Layout the your sleeve. Sew the scrappy strips together with the 6.5″ x 1.5″ linen strips. This will make a block of ~10″ x 6.5″.

    ScrapsSewn_Layout
  2. You now have 4 pieces to make your quilt sandwich. Iron one piece of the fusible fleece to the corduroy, the other to the scrappy block (front). Pin the layers together and trim the top edge, so that you have a good guide for quilting. QuiltSandwich
  3. Quilt the sandwich. I used my foot edge for even distance between the straight-line quilting.
    Quilted
  4. Pin the template on the quilted sandwich. Cut out your coffee cup sleeve.
    CutFirstSleeve
  5. You may actually be able to get two out of your block. Line the template up with the arc of the previous cut.
    CutTwoSleeves
  6. You now have two sleeves.
    TwoSleevesCut
  7. Take one of the sleeves and the 1/4″ double folded bias. Open the bias folds, and iron the edge in about a 1/4″. This will be where you will fold the edges of the binding within itself.
  8. Use a machine binding technique with your sleeve,  that means, you will start sewing the binding to the back. Unfold one edge of the binding and use the fold as a guide to your sew line. Sew approximately 1″ at a time, making sure you line up the edge of the bias with the sleeve edge. Use mitered corners.
    SewingBinding_Back
  9. To finish up the binding on the back, overlap the edges of the binding about 1/4″ and sew. Unfold the bottom edge (leaving the 1/4″ “hem”),  and nest the other edge, refold.
  10. Turn over the coffee cup sleeve and fold over the binding. Stitch about a couple of mm from the edge all the way around. At the corners make sure you make the mitered corners fold the opposite way of the back.
    SewingBinding_Front
  11. Once the binding is on add the finishing details. On the slightly angled edge, pin the middle of the hair tie together, and pin it to the middle of the sleeve.
    PlacingElasticTie
  12. Turn the coffee cup sleeve over and sew along the top stitching of the binding to mask the stitching. Back stitch, back across the hair tie to add strength to the securing stitches.
  13. To finish off securing the hair tie, add about 10 stitches attaching the end of the hair tie to the back. Make sure your stitches do not go through the front. Use a thread color to match the corduroy.
    Finishings
  14. Last step, is attaching the button to the straighter edge of the coffee cup sleeve. I use a 4 hole button, as it is more stable than a 2 hole which is needed with the pull of from the hair tie.FinalSleeve_FlatView
  15. That’s it, the only thing left is to try it on your cup. It should fit a Starbuck’s cup and their $1 recycle cup and Caribou Cafe etc.
    FinalSleeve_back

I hope you enjoy, and I would love to see any you make up. If you have any questions let me know.

Small Giveaway

Now, for a small giveaway…I have an extra coffee cup sleeve of the one above and I will throw in some recent scraps as well, whatever I can fit in the envelope. Just leave a comment below on what handmade gifts you are making for Christmas. If you are a follower you get a second entry – just let me know below. I will randomly draw a winner next Sunday at 6pm EST.

Linking up with Sew Cute Tuesday and Let’s Bee Social (see buttons on the right).