Reposting original post (JUL 2014)
In May, I taught a Modern Block class at Spoonflower. I promised folks that I would share the designs/patterns of each blocks of my sampler quilt.
As promised, here is the first one – the modern “T” block. Finished size is 12″.
Planning your Block
This block is actually a repeated pattern (the whole repeat blocks are marked in blue below). You can chain piece the block pieces or you can make it using paper piecing. Start by planning your block, color in the pieces so you know where pieces go. I have included a template you can color here.
Note: This is considered a challenging block due to the small pieces – to give you an idea the sashing is 1/2″, the small square is 1″.
Method 1: Piecing
Below are cutting instructions for the pieces. I have mapped these instructions with the colors in the T Block photo above.
| Fabric A (Light Blue)
|| Fat Eighth
- 4 1.5” x 3.5”
- 6 1.5” x 3”
- 7 1.5” x 2”
| Fabric B (Dark Blue)
| Fabric C (Orange)
|| Fat eighth
- 5 1.5” x 3.5”
- 5 1.5” x 3”
- 6 1.5” x 2”
| Fabric D (Citron)
|| Fat eighth
|Fabric E (White Sashing)
- 8 1” strips (~20 inches long)
Making your Block
- I chain piece all my small colored pieces to the white sashing strips. The white sashing will be pieces 2, 3, 4, 6, 8b and 9.
- Start with all the 1 pieces and sew them to a strip of white sashing (#2). Trim all the pieces so that you now have 1+2 combined. Press seams open.
- Now chain piece on the other side another white strip to the 1+2 pieces. Trim all the pieces, and now you have 1+2+3 combined. Press seams open.
- Now chain piece 1+2+3 to another white strip (#4). Trim to create 1+2+3+4. Press seams.
- Add #5 pieces to 1+2+3+4. Press seams.
- Chain piece 1+2+3+4+5 to a white strip (#6). Trim and press seams.
- Add #7 to the 1+2+3+4+5+6.
- Chain piece 8a to a white strip (#8b). Trim and press seams.
- Sew 8a+8b to 1+2+3+4+5+6+7 block. Press seams.
- Finally, chain piece 1-9 block to a white strip (#9). Trim and press seams
- Repeat 8 times for the whole block repeats (the sections marked above with blue lines).
- At this point, use a design board. Layout your whole blocks. Take the other remaining pieces and lay them out. For the remaining pieces, you can sew each of the pieces one by one, using the same system as a whole block above, sewing just the relevant pieces.
- Once all pieces /repeats are sewn, join pieces of each column (i.e. piece going down instead of the typical rows across).
- When piecing the 4 columns together, use a lot of pins. I recommend lining up all the colored pieces to ensure alignment is accurate.
Method 2: Paper Piecing
This is not an instruction for paper-piecing, I am assuming you know. The template for the repeat block can be found here. Here are some instructions:
- Print template at 100%
- Cut the block out along the edge
- Cut down around the A, B and C sections
- Once you finish paper piecing each section; make sure you measure the 1/4 inch seam allowance from the edge of the paper.
- Join sections in the order A–>B; AB–>C
- Once the ABC block is complete make sure you measure the 1/4 inch seam allowance from the edge of the paper.
- Follow the above steps 13-14 in method 1 ( to join the blocks down each column and then joining column to column.
Hope you enjoy the block, let me know if you have any questions.
Additional Spoonflower Sampler Quilt Block tutorials:
I love paper piecing and have been doing a lot lately. Previously, I blogged about some useful tips and lessons learned when paper-piecing. I have another tip, for those awkward angles.
You know those angles that the fabric starts off not in line with the shape you want to cover, at all. The one you can just cut a really big piece of fabric to make sure it folds over and covers the whole piece.
What about trying these few steps to make it easier.
1. Place fabric covering the shape you are piecing. In the photo I have the fabric, right side facing down and the paper template facing up.
2. Fold the template and fabric carefully, along the line of the paper template that you will be stitching on. Press with an iron.
3. You will now have a crease in your fabric.
4. Use that crease to line up your fabric with the template, readying it to stitch along the line. Note the fabric in the picture is now right side facing up, and is positioned in that awkward position. Hold in place (you can use pins or glue). Stitch along the template line.
5. Trim excess (allowing for a 1/4″), fold over the fabric and press along the stitched line.
6. This is how my block finished up.
Let me know if you have any questions, or any trouble when trying it out. Linking up with Stephenie @Late Night Quilter for Tips and Tutorials Tuesdays.
I have managed to get back to my “It takes a Village” quilt. It has in total Forty-four (44) 4″ triangles. I had previously posted two of the quilting designs I was using for my triangles. Again, using my walking foot, here is the third…
I love the simplicity of this design, where you can see the equilateral triangles and then the intersecting lines to form a diamond. I did do some initial marking for this block. I marked the 2” center line, and on the two sides I marked the 2″ height mark for the intersecting lines. These marks are used as rough guides to evenly separate the sections.
Here are the quilted lines for this block; their directions, start and end points:
Last week, I posted the tutorial for Trapped which was featured on Sew Mama Sew.
This was the first of a series, I am calling “Houdini”. The other block is Escaped. Here is the tutorial for the second block.
Fabric A: (Kona Red, A)
- 1 4” x 6.5” rectangle (extra inches included)
Fabric B: (Kona White, B)
Fabric C: (Kona Black, C)
- 1 6.5” x 17.5” rectangle (extra inches included)
- 1 5” x 9.5” rectangle
- 1 5” x 7.5” rectangle
- 1 7” x 17.5” rectangle
Batting: 17.5” square
Muslin: 17.5” square
Frame: 18” square frame
Escaped Block Assembly (Finished Size 17”)
Always use a ¼” seam allowance while piecing.
- Take Fabric A (red, A1), measure from the bottom right corner place your ruler at this mark, at the top have your ruler move in ¼” (as shown in picture above) and cut.
- Place your ruler along the outer edge of A1, and measure 3” and cut the same parallel outer angle.
- Use the 6.5” x 17.5” strip of fabric C, and cut a piece 6.5” x 9.5“. This will be for piece A3. Overlap A1 outer edge (minimal overlap) and the right edge of A3, lining up the bottom and top edges. Both pieces should be right sides facing up. Using A1 edge as the template, line your ruler up along the fabric edge and cut the below black fabric. This is now the inner angle/edge
- Sew A3 to A1. Press the seam.
- With the remaining fabric (6.5” x 8.5”), this will be A2. Overlap A1 outer edge (minimal overlap) and the left edge of A2, lining up the bottom and top edges. Both pieces should be right sides facing up. Using A1 edge as the template, line your ruler up along the fabric edge and cut the below black fabric. This is now the inner angle/edge.
- Sew A2 to A1–>A3 piece. Press the seam. Now the bottom 1/3 of the block is complete. Trim if need be, the bottom ½ should measure 6.5” x 17.5”.
- Sew the 7” x 17.5” rectangle to the bottom 1/3. Press the seam. A1–>A2–>A3–>C1
- Next step sew B2–>B1–> B3
- Sew this last piece to the other 2/3 of the block, to complete the block.
- Create a quilt sandwich using your completed top, your batting and the muslin for the backing fabric. Baste using your preferred method.
- Choose how you would like to quilt your block. I used straight line quilting techniques, and having those lines get denser as they closed in to the red and white boxes. Trim your block to 17” square.
- Once quilting is complete, it is ready to be framed. I used a 18” square frame, with a mount board of ~2” wide.
My first year sewing, I decided to make coffee cup sleeves for Christmas gifts and a Christmas fair. They were so successful, and after making about 40 of these, I thought y’all would enjoy them too.
- 24 2.5″ x 1.5″ Scraps (I am using pink and purple scraps which could be any size)
- 3 6.5″ x 1.5″ Linen strips
- 1 6.5″ x 10″ Corduroy (for backing, you could also use felt)
- 2 6.5″ x 10″ fusible fleece ( you could use one piece fleece, one piece insul fleece; I use both pieces of fleece, so that I can use it for cold drink sweat as well)
- 1/4″ binding (Wrights double folded bias works well)
- 1 Elastic hair tie
- 1 button
- 1 Paper Coffee cup sleeve (use as template)
- Sew the 2.5″ x 1.5″ pieces into 6.5″ x 2.5″ strips and trim. Layout the your sleeve. Sew the scrappy strips together with the 6.5″ x 1.5″ linen strips. This will make a block of ~10″ x 6.5″.
- You now have 4 pieces to make your quilt sandwich. Iron one piece of the fusible fleece to the corduroy, the other to the scrappy block (front). Pin the layers together and trim the top edge, so that you have a good guide for quilting.
- Quilt the sandwich. I used my foot edge for even distance between the straight-line quilting.
- Pin the template on the quilted sandwich. Cut out your coffee cup sleeve.
- You may actually be able to get two out of your block. Line the template up with the arc of the previous cut.
- You now have two sleeves.
- Take one of the sleeves and the 1/4″ double folded bias. Open the bias folds, and iron the edge in about a 1/4″. This will be where you will fold the edges of the binding within itself.
- Use a machine binding technique with your sleeve, that means, you will start sewing the binding to the back. Unfold one edge of the binding and use the fold as a guide to your sew line. Sew approximately 1″ at a time, making sure you line up the edge of the bias with the sleeve edge. Use mitered corners.
- To finish up the binding on the back, overlap the edges of the binding about 1/4″ and sew. Unfold the bottom edge (leaving the 1/4″ “hem”), and nest the other edge, refold.
- Turn over the coffee cup sleeve and fold over the binding. Stitch about a couple of mm from the edge all the way around. At the corners make sure you make the mitered corners fold the opposite way of the back.
- Once the binding is on add the finishing details. On the slightly angled edge, pin the middle of the hair tie together, and pin it to the middle of the sleeve.
- Turn the coffee cup sleeve over and sew along the top stitching of the binding to mask the stitching. Back stitch, back across the hair tie to add strength to the securing stitches.
- To finish off securing the hair tie, add about 10 stitches attaching the end of the hair tie to the back. Make sure your stitches do not go through the front. Use a thread color to match the corduroy.
- Last step, is attaching the button to the straighter edge of the coffee cup sleeve. I use a 4 hole button, as it is more stable than a 2 hole which is needed with the pull of from the hair tie.
- That’s it, the only thing left is to try it on your cup. It should fit a Starbuck’s cup and their $1 recycle cup and Caribou Cafe etc.
I hope you enjoy, and I would love to see any you make up. If you have any questions let me know.
Now, for a small giveaway…I have an extra coffee cup sleeve of the one above and I will throw in some recent scraps as well, whatever I can fit in the envelope. Just leave a comment below on what handmade gifts you are making for Christmas. If you are a follower you get a second entry – just let me know below. I will randomly draw a winner next Sunday at 6pm EST.
Linking up with Sew Cute Tuesday and Let’s Bee Social (see buttons on the right).
I have had the great opportunity to participate in Quilt Design a Day, and share some of those designs as tutorials on Sew Mama Sew. My favorite project so far is my design “Succulent” (tutorial to make this quilt can be found here).
This color palette (that was supplied by design seeds) was so far out my comfort zone which made this so appealing.
My first attempt of quilting did not go so well…
The second time was much better and complements the quilt so well. It has some straight line quilting with a focus on the middle intersecting lines. These I quilted in a peachy color and sewed both the vertical and horizontal lines.
Dimensions: 40″ x 40″
Design: Michelle Wilkie
Fabric for Front: Kona Chocolate, Kona Peach, Kona Mint, Kona Leaf and Kona Pool
Backing: Dottie in Caviar, Cotton + Steel Basics (Backing)
Binding: Garden Gate in Berry, Sweet as Honey, Bonnie Christine
Quilting: Straight Line Quilted, ½” Spacing; Aurifil 50wt; Fleshly Pink (2420), Light Blue Grey (2610)
I am entering this quilt in Amy’s fantastic Bloggers Quilt Festival in the Original Design category. Don’t forget, if you want to make one of these the tutorial over at Sew Mama Sew. Voting starts tomorrow for the festival.