Category Archives: Patterns

Scrappy Star Blocks {Tutorial}

These blocks were inspired when looking at some vintage block combinations. I was thinking about making a gift our of scraps, specifically pink & yellow fabrics with scrappy low volume backgrounds. My goal is to alternate the blocks and make a twin sized quilt (4 x 5 blocks)

Block 1 is made with a simple 9-patch center. Block 2 is made with an Ohio star center. They measure 18″ finished (18 1/2″ unfinished).

Notes:

HST = Half Square Triangle
RST = Right Side together
All seam allowances are 1/4″

Cutting Instructions for each block

Block 1 (9-patch center):

  • Five (5) 2 1/2″ low volume squares
  • Four (4) 6 1/2″ low volume squares
  • Eight (8) 4 1/2″ low volume squares
  • Eight (8) 4 1/2″ pink squares
  • Four (4) 2 1/2″ yellow squares

Block 2 (Ohio Star center):

  • Five (5) 2 1/2″ low volume squares
  • Four (4) 6 1/2″ low volume squares
  • Eight (8) 4 1/2″ low volume squares
  • Two (2) 3 1/2″ low volume squares
  • Eight (8) 4 1/2″ yellow squares
  • Two (2) 3 1/2″ pink squares

Construction of the Center Blocks

Block 1 (9-patch center):

  1. Layout the 9 patch square by using the five (5) 2 1/2″ low volume squares and the four (4) 2 1/2″ squares. The low volume and yellow squares should alternate starting with a low volume square in the corners and center of the block.

  2. Stitch together each of the rows of three blocks. Press seams.
    Note: I press open as it lays flatter and I find it easier to match the seams.

  3. Once all three rows are stitched, sew them together matching seams and pinning in place while stitching. Press seams.

Block 2 (Ohio Star center):

  1. Start by making quarter triangle squares. Take the two (2) low volume and on the back side, draw a diagonal line between one set of corners.
  2. Place the low volume square and the pink 3 1/2″ squares RST.

  3. With the low volume back facing upwards, so you can see the line, stitch a seam on either side of the line.
    Note: I chain piece these, and do all one side first and then the other.

  4. Cut along your drawn line with a ruler and rotary cutter. You should now have two (2) HST from each set of 3 1/2″ squares. Press seams.

  5. Using a ruler and rotary cutter cut these squares in half along the opposite diagonal that is pieced. You should have 8 half pieces.

  6. Match up the halves from all the blocks so that the color triangles are diagonally lined up. Put triangles RST, match the seams in the middle (along the longest length) and pin. Stitch together to make 4 blocks. Press seams.

  7. Lastly, trim the blocks to 2 1/2″.
    Note: I use a square ruler with a 45 degree angle line (see image below in next section #5). I line up the 45 degree line with one of my seams and trim all 4 sides (2 at a time), making sure I don’t cut it smaller than 2 1/2″ (you should have at least 1/8 inch to trim for each side).
  8. Follow the steps above for Block 1 to now make a 9-patch (instead of yellow use the pink quarter square triangles). The layout, I use, is as follows.

Construction for HSTs

  1. Take the eight (8) 4 1/2″ low volume squares and on the back side, draw a diagonal line between one set of corners.
  2. Place the low volume square and the pink or yellow 4 1/2″ squares right side together.

  3. With the low volume back facing upwards, so you can see the line, stitch 1/4″ seam on either side of the line.
    Note: I chain piece these, and do all one side first and then the other.

  4. Cut along your drawn line with a ruler and rotary cutter. You should now have two HST from each set of 4 1/2″ squares. Press seams.

  5. Trim all HST to 3 1/2″.
    Note: I use a square ruler with a 45 degree angle line. I line up the 45 degree line (as shown below) with the seam and trim all 4 sides (2 at a time), making sure I don’t cut it smaller than 3 1/2″ (you should have at ~1/4 inch to trim for each side).

  6. You will now be making flying geese with the HST’s. Four will be with low volume in the middle and the colored print on the outside, and four with the color print in the middle and low volume on the outside.

  7. Once you have laid out your squares, put them right side together and stitch them together using a 1/4″ seam. Make sure you know which side to stitch. Press seams open.
  8. Final step, is to make four (4) 6 1/2″ squares using one of each of the flying geese (white and colored middle triangles). Place the flying geese RST, along the long side, match the middle seam, so that your colored squares are forming an arrow. Stitch together.

Construction for Final Blocks

  1. For the final construction you are essentially making another 9-patch square. Place the four (4) 6 1/2″ low volume prints at each corner, in the middle place the center block (smaller 9-patch or Ohio Star) and then in the space place the arrow block (the pink or yellow HST block).
  2. Stitch together each of the rows of three blocks. Press seams.
  3. Once all three rows are stitched, sew them together (with RST) matching the two seams and pinning in place while stitching. Press seams as you go.


Enjoy the tutorial and let me know if I need to clarify anything. I would love to see your blocks if you make any. Tag me on Instagram @ml_wilkie and use #scrappystarblocks when you post or share.

Mod Squares {free pattern}

This is the second pattern I am releasing here as a free pattern, as it is no longer available on Sew Mama Sew (published 2014). Mod Squares is basically using a traditional 9 patch block, where I played with both size and color placement of the pieces.

This was an early quilt I had made (so not perfect), I think it was the first time I tried free motion quilting. It is, however, one of the most loved lap-quilts and lives in my son’s room. I hope you enjoy the pattern too, as it would make a great baby gift.

How it started…

The original color palette (Design Seeds) was very vibrant and strong, but highlighted different ways color can be used to make a block very different.

For this quilt though, I wanted a softer look. After playing with the fabric selection and introducing the use prints, low volume prints and several neutral solids, the look of the design completely changes. 

Quilt Details

Size: 54” x 54”

Terminology

WOF – Width of Fabric
RST – Right Sides Together
Seam Allowance: 1/4” seam allowance

Fabric Requirements

Fabric A (Variety of Low Volume Fabrics): 1 yard (largest 2 pieces must be 24″ square)
Fabric B (Variety of Neutral Fabrics): 1 yard (eg. Kona Cotton inBone, Parchment, Silver, Stone, White PDF, largest piece must be 24″ square)
Fabric C (Kona Oyster): 2 yards
Fabric D (Doiland Gloss in Plum, Indelible, Katarina Roccella): 1 yard
Fabric E (Floret Stains in Tealberry, Indelible, Katarina Roccella): 1/2 yard (18″ x WOF)
Backing fabric and Batting: 60” Square 
Binding: 226” (of your desired binding width, I use 2 1/4″) 1/2 yard

Cutting Instructions

FabricCutting Instructions
Fabric ATwenty-four (24) 5” squares
Five (5) 2 1/2″ squares
Fifteen (15) 2 1/2” x 5” strip
Two (2) 24” square (for the Back)
Fabric BNine (9) 5” squares
Three (3) 2 1/2” squares
Eight (8) 2 1/2” x 5” strip
One (1) 11 1/2” x 24” strip (for the Back)
One (1) 24” square (for the Back)
Fabric CTwenty-four (24) 5” squares
Five (5) 2 1/2″ squares
Twenty-seven (27) 2 1/2” x 5” strip
Two (2) 2 1/2” x 54” strip (for sashing)
Five (5)  2 1/2” x 50” strip (for sashing)
Twelve (12) 2 1/2” x 11 1/2” strip (for sashing)
One (1) 11 1/2” x 24” strip (for the Back)
One (1) 24” square (for the Back)
Fabric DTwo (2) 5” squares
Two (2) 2 1/2” squares
Thirteen (13) 2 1/2” x 5” strip
One (1) 24” square (for the Back)
One (1) 11 1/2 ” x 23 1/2” strip (for the Back)
Fabric E Five (5) 5” squares
One (1) 2 1/2″ squares
One (1) 2 1/2” x 5” strip
One (1) 11 1/2” x 24” strip (for the Back)
Table 1: Fabric Cutting Instructions

Preparation

It is important to plan your layout for your blocks. You can also available for download your own planning map here. Once you have your placement as you want it, take a picture.

Fabric Layout Map (by assigned letter)
Fabric Map Placement showing Print placement

TIP: Once you cut your blocks and decide on placement, pin and label all block pieces until you are ready to sew them together.

Block Assembly

  1. Each block consists of four (4) 5” squares, four (4) 2 1/2” x 5” strips and one (1) 2 1/2” square. The layout for all the pieces is represented below.
  2. Sew the pieces of each row  together. Press your seams. NOTE: My preference is to press my seams open.
  1. Sew the rows together (Row 1 to 2, Rows 1,2 to 3). Align the seams and pin in place to hold the alignment. Press seams. NOTE: To hold seam alignment in place, an alternative pinning method is glue.
  1. Repeat steps 1-3 for the other 15 blocks, keeping in mind placement of fabrics for each block.

Quilt Top Assembly

  1. Add the 2 1/2” x 11 1/2” sashing strips to the 11 1/2” blocks as depicted below. Press the seams.
  1. Add the 2 1/2” x 50” sashing strips to each of the block rows. Press the seams.
  1. Final step is to add the top and bottom 2 1/2” x 54” sashing strips to finish the top.

Quilt Back Assembly

  1. The quilt back is a larger version of the smaller blocks that are used in the quilt top. The back consists of four (4) 24” squares, four (4) 11 1/2” x 24” strips and one (1) 11 1/2” square. 
  2. To construct this block follow steps 1-3 above in section Block Assembly.
Back of quilt

Final Quilt Assembly

When the top and back are completed, baste and quilt your sandwich as desired. Square your quilt and bind it to finish your quilt.

This is a great quick quilt top to put together, perfect quilt for your sofa or for a kids blanket. Also, you can have fun with the fabric choices, color and placement. I would love to see the final quilts on Instagram, so feel free to share with #modsquaresquilt. Have fun!!

Tread {a finish}

The design for this quilt, Tread, was originally created as part of an article for the Modern Quilt Guild (MQG) on finding elements and designing a quilt. I was lucky enough to be asked to make it a realty, using a specific color palette in Moda’s Bella Solids. This quilt is now available as a pattern to MQG members as part of Modern Monthly, and will be the feature quilt for June.

IMG_6985

Photo Courtesy of The Modern Quilt Guild (Photographer: Austin Day, Stylist: Lauren Day)

The original inspiration was this cog and spoke machinery, that I had captured at the Shantytown Heritage Park a couple of years ago. I was fascinated by the arrows of the cogs, to think that these interlock and make something move… just loved the pattern and shapes.

DSC_0354

Not my usual color palette but I grew to love this supplied color palette (Rust, Coral, Teal with backing and binding fabric Zen Chic’s Day in Paris). The batting was also supplied by Quilter’s Dream which I had not used before but really enjoyed the low loft. The quilting was done in 50wt Aurifil 2420 (light Coral color). I shadowed the zigzag and used some extra ghosting in areas for interest. In the larger negative space areas, I just used vertical 1/2 in. straight line quilting.

Modern Quilt0220

Photo Courtesy of The Modern Quilt Guild (Photographer: Austin Day, Stylist: Lauren Day)

I was so pleased when the MQG posted the pics of this project, for:

  1. I was finally finished with the quilt. I had stitched this quilt in a period of a creative block and in midst of over commitment with craziness at work, additional travel and prepping for teaching my first time at QuiltCon. It was such a relief to see this done
  2. The staged pictures that the MQG produced (see captions of photos for photography and stylist) were just amazing. I mean look at the wall and how much it makes this quilt pop !!! Amazing!!

As I marked my quilt with chalk, I had to give a spin in the washing machine and dry it. I love that finish crinkly look of this piece.

Details

Name : Tread
Design:
 Original Design, Inspired by Cogs
Fabric: Moda Fabrics, Bella Solids – Rust, Coral and Teal
Binding: Moda Fabrics, Zen Chic, Day in Paris (Teal)
Dimensions: 60 x 60 in.
Quilted: With 50wt Aurifil 2420 (Coral), using domestic machine walking foot, straight lines.